ɧow to surf a 1ȎȎȎ ft wave

22

May 28 by The Running Son

http://wwos.ninemsn.com.au/glanceview/279960/surfing-the-worlds-biggest-waves.glance

dare-devil surfer
Garrett McNamara

ɧow to surf a 1ȎȎȎ ft wave

You grab your surfboard,
make for shorelines,
soar by bystanders
and flex your best body
standards, chest hair first.

You’ll need to manage shifty
sands. and trembling hands will
wax faster with nervous laughter,
and feet will make tracks (after opening acts)
for the mother of all dread-lock attractions:

the great wave crash.
The whack
of water to ground alone
sends me back to the original curling-in:
that womb of warm sand, named home.

But these swellings and flat landings!
The sudden beach-breaks and ego manhandling
sent me off the hook–
upset like a wake, thumb sucking with a book
face forward, my look like,

“who took the wind away?”.
Who switched out my set-waves
for hours of hazy day-waxing,
nothing breaking and all bomb sets lacking?
I mean, where have all the waves gone?

The sand goes moist, a salt loam.
Then you hit foam and soar–
board first to point-break,
seeming lake minded and surfer safe
but harboring dark crags, and rocks. They crop up

and take you, wrong-side-over
to the chop: rock-point. Then drop you
to the joint of wave, and you flopping
toward the sun. You stare. You and the Sun
become one there. The sun-stare.

The hoards cheer. Who cares. Boards up!
*

*

*

*

by Jim Aldrich

.namaste.   -• ö.tH(ink)Mÿstiç •-   .namaste.

blu butterflies live freee.

Advertisements

22 thoughts on “ɧow to surf a 1ȎȎȎ ft wave

  1. Great poem. Love the new theme, too.

  2. Geo Sans says:

    sinking
    waves
    ~
    suffocating
    yesterday

  3. Villanueva says:

    I should take my swimming lesson first before I surf 1 foot wave 😉

  4. If I saw a wave that big my first reaction would to run. I can’t imagine running towards it and surrendering myself on a wooden board to it. Yikes! But I love the way you describe it. Do you hang ten often?

    • yep, thats me, emo-artist surfer jock…
      No, not the jock-surfer, just the artist. Actually I am an “inlander”. It is what people from Balboa and Newport Beach call those of us that live closer to Disneyland and Knotts Berry Farm.

      • Oh cool artist. I’m in the art field myself. I’ve never been to California but I’ve seen a lot of photos and it looks like a great place to live. I do love the beach. I really liked your surf visual. Water is powerful and serene at the same time. I took a little break in my brain today to join you riding the waves…It was great and I didn’t even have to wear sunblock!

  5. Something I have always wanted to learn how to do but no waves here in the middle of flatness (hehe). Great imagery through your words!!!

    T (or L) 🙂

    • thx tiwi. I dont surf. I like watching surfing. So cal has yearly events in Huntington Beach. I like the ocean, but I hate that it’s more powerful than I am. Makes me feel powerless.

  6. 1WriteWay says:

    ” thumb-sucking with a book” … Priceless :). Thanks for the ride 😉

  7. You were descriptive enough to give me a visual. Thanks for that experience today.

♫ Talk to Jim...

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

RFB editor Jim Aldrich, Joshua Tree CA 2013

RunningSon aka Jim Aldrich, Joshua Tree CA 2013 | This site is dedicated with the deepest gratitude to Dr. Cláudio Naranjo, whose writings gave me life.

  • 273,938 souls hit the RFB

Click to Follow the RFB!

Join 1,023 other followers

Recent Posts…

Some RFB Followers…

Flag Counter
DoubleU = W

WITHIN ARE PIECES OF ME

UP!::urban po'E.Tree(s)

by po'E.T. and the colors of pi

The shadows of a dream

Words walking the tightrope from functionality to versification.

Connecting Beyond

Beyond The Known

presentlymine

spice up your life vanilla style

galaktikapoetikeatunis

A topnotch WordPress.com site

forgottenmeadows

thoughts from my mind to yours

A Mirror Obscura,

Poetry, musings and sightings from where the country changes

annamosca

Poetic Landscapes Of The Spirit

Bilder

Ein schöner Tag - wenn er zu Ende geht, ist nichts mehr, wie es war...

realtalented

Im here to expose true talent

phillymanjim's Blog

Poetry, Musings, Photographs

Blog It Or Lose It

Paloma's Pen

The Year(s) of Living Non-Judgmentally

Here and now, with all of it.

Tania Marie

Creating Life As A Work Of Art With A Magick Rabbit By My Side

seanbidd.wordpress.com/

Nomadic & transient tales from a boutique photographer, writer and multimedia creative.

belsbror

Simple Living

Papermashed

A place for all that inspires me, especially to write.

Smuggling Bay

About expression

leather green gargoyle

what I hear, what I read, what I write

Gray Poet

Just a place to express my poems.

HA's Place

the lived experiences and musings of an organic, home-grown poet

sharkouni

The greatest WordPress.com site in all the land!

Notes on a Spanish Valley

Award-winning blog - Living in rural Andalucia

Wendy L. Macdonald

My faith is not shallow because I've been rescued from the deep.

idealisticrebel

Women's Issues, Peace, Creativity & Spirituality

intotheindigo

My muse's quiet amusement

The Bully Pulpit

(n): An office or position that provides its occupant with an outstanding opportunity to speak out on any issue.

Poemotherapi Shoppe

"Oh How Art Thou Love Of Poetry"

hammerwerk

light_and_shadow

I didn't have my glasses on....

A trip through life with fingers crossed and eternal optimism.

∙ tenderheartmusings ∙

we were born naked onto the page of existence; with nothing but the pen of our soul to write ourselves into eternal ecstasy ~ DreamingBear Baraka Kanaan

"we'll never be royals."

Small artists with big potential and lots of cliché.

ldr13

A Long Distance Relationship Blog. Join the FB Page: https://www.facebook.com/theLDRdiaries13

David Emeron: Sonnets

If I swore not to describe my heart, would it stop beating forever?

PICZLoad pics a la carte

Watchout Loud and Have PICBliss!

Simple Pleasures

Visual Poetry, Photography and Quotes

Of Distant Places

How it feels like feeling home to a person who lives 8,000 miles away

Manang Bok's House

Atrocities are sometimes nothing less than the vengeance of the tormented. (Louis de Bernieres)

going the distance for love blog

Life in a long distance relationship

Blase'

My heart, mind and soul...transcribed!

Don Charisma

because anything is possible with Charisma

%d bloggers like this: