ɧow to surf a 1ȎȎȎ ft wave


May 28 by The Running Son


dare-devil surfer
Garrett McNamara

ɧow to surf a 1ȎȎȎ ft wave

You grab your surfboard,
make for shorelines,
soar by bystanders
and flex your best body
standards, chest hair first.

You’ll need to manage shifty
sands. and trembling hands will
wax faster with nervous laughter,
and feet will make tracks (after opening acts)
for the mother of all dread-lock attractions:

the great wave crash.
The whack
of water to ground alone
sends me back to the original curling-in:
that womb of warm sand, named home.

But these swellings and flat landings!
The sudden beach-breaks and ego manhandling
sent me off the hook–
upset like a wake, thumb sucking with a book
face forward, my look like,

“who took the wind away?”.
Who switched out my set-waves
for hours of hazy day-waxing,
nothing breaking and all bomb sets lacking?
I mean, where have all the waves gone?

The sand goes moist, a salt loam.
Then you hit foam and soar–
board first to point-break,
seeming lake minded and surfer safe
but harboring dark crags, and rocks. They crop up

and take you, wrong-side-over
to the chop: rock-point. Then drop you
to the joint of wave, and you flopping
toward the sun. You stare. You and the Sun
become one there. The sun-stare.

The hoards cheer. Who cares. Boards up!




by Jim Aldrich

.namaste.   -• ö.tH(ink)Mÿstiç •-   .namaste.

blu butterflies live freee.


22 thoughts on “ɧow to surf a 1ȎȎȎ ft wave

  1. Great poem. Love the new theme, too.

  2. Geo Sans says:


  3. Villanueva says:

    I should take my swimming lesson first before I surf 1 foot wave 😉

  4. If I saw a wave that big my first reaction would to run. I can’t imagine running towards it and surrendering myself on a wooden board to it. Yikes! But I love the way you describe it. Do you hang ten often?

    • yep, thats me, emo-artist surfer jock…
      No, not the jock-surfer, just the artist. Actually I am an “inlander”. It is what people from Balboa and Newport Beach call those of us that live closer to Disneyland and Knotts Berry Farm.

      • Oh cool artist. I’m in the art field myself. I’ve never been to California but I’ve seen a lot of photos and it looks like a great place to live. I do love the beach. I really liked your surf visual. Water is powerful and serene at the same time. I took a little break in my brain today to join you riding the waves…It was great and I didn’t even have to wear sunblock!

  5. Something I have always wanted to learn how to do but no waves here in the middle of flatness (hehe). Great imagery through your words!!!

    T (or L) 🙂

    • thx tiwi. I dont surf. I like watching surfing. So cal has yearly events in Huntington Beach. I like the ocean, but I hate that it’s more powerful than I am. Makes me feel powerless.

  6. 1WriteWay says:

    ” thumb-sucking with a book” … Priceless :). Thanks for the ride 😉

  7. You were descriptive enough to give me a visual. Thanks for that experience today.

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RFB editor Jim Aldrich, Joshua Tree CA 2013

RunningSon aka Jim Aldrich, Joshua Tree CA 2013 | This site is dedicated with the deepest gratitude to Dr. Cláudio Naranjo, whose writings gave me life.

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